Confessions of a Fashion Writer: January 2011

Friday, January 21, 2011

Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 2011

A sexy ambiguous spy at Gaultier. French designer Jean Paul Gaultier was motivated this season by Ian Fleming's fictional character James Bond 007. A character known for his masculine charm and incredible fashion choice with his trademark sleek dinner jacket. Gaultier payed homage to Bond but added his own kinky twist by toying around with the idea of sexual perversion and femininity. With the idea of androgyny and femininity in mind the star of the show was Serbian Australian male model Andrej Pejic whom displays beautiful feminine features and long blonde hair. The gender bending idea channeled American actress Veronica Lake as the alter ego of James Bond. The feminine charm was evident in the fishnet tights that were paired with the high cut boy shorts and also peeked out under pants. The tuxedo was the main focus and was paired various pieces such as simple trousers, neoprene leggings, skirts and sexy hot pants. Amongst the tuxedo jackets was a nice variety of jackets that came in leather, fur-lined and also available in a pin-striped. Adding to the sleek sensation was the shiny diamond quilted puffer jackets. Bond's masculinity prevailed in the sleek leather trench coat and tailored to perfection tuxedo pieces. The show portrayed the different elements of James Bond with the classic look, the feminine alter ego, the villains, a femme fatale side and Goldfinger from the 1960's. The Jean Paul Gaultier look was sexy with a nice touch of femininity.

The event was held at the Jean Paul Gaultier headquarters show space on Rue Saint-Martin in Paris. The show opened with Spanish model Miguel Iglesias the traditional sleek James Bond attire of a black tuxedo with a shiny lapel and perfected bow tie and a gun in one hand. Moments after androgynous model Andrej Pejic emerged in a stunning white shirt that was undone to his navel paired with black fishnet pantyhose stockings peeking at the waist. The black tuxedo was relaxed and the look resembled Veronica Lake with his beautiful blonde hair swept to the side. A nice variety of pieces such as tailored pants paired with a long or short navy buttoned skirts were great options. Black was mostly prevalent in the villain pieces with suggestive cutouts and hot pants that were accessorized with guns.

Admired pieces in the collection were the classic sleek black tailored tuxedos and the long leather trench coats. The Gold embossed jacket was incredibly chic and was one of the most appealing pieces in the collection. The fur coat that Pejic wore in the finale was amazing and channeled the alter ego Veronica Lake.

Jean Paul Gaultier paid homage to fictional character James Bond by adding his own twist on a new character that relied on his feminine charm and masculine muscles to save the world. Gaultier displayed great skills with this collection to show the sexuality and femininity of James Bond. The Jean Paul Gaultier man is ready to save the world with his sleek look and feminine charm. -Brent Billiman reporting from Paris, France.

Luca Bruno Photo: Model Andrej Pejic for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model Miguel Iglesias for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model Nicolas Ripoll for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Jean Paul Gualtier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Luca Bruno Photo: Model Andrej Pejic for Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Prada F/W 2011

Priestly chic meets posh punk at Prada. Italian designer Muiccia Prada created a collection that had a religious sentiment with priestly attire with a punk edge and a hint of 1970's Star Trek. The marriage between these ideas were intertwined to create a fall collection that had the classic Prada tailoring with a punk edge and a touch of science fiction chic. In previous collections she has always showed great intellect with the idea of turning something that was unappealing and making it palpable. With that idea she has never really cared for suede but this time around there was a generous amount of it. Suede was visible in the swing coats and jackets that came in brown, tan and black diamond patterns that was reworked to make more appealing for the customer. The key colors in the collection mostly consisted of a dark hues of black, charcoal and light gray with hints of tan, chocolate, lavender and emerald green. Amongst the dark tailored boxy coats was v-neck knits, short trousers and shiny shorts. The diamond patterns were visible in subtle colors on shirts, coats and knit sweaters giving a 1970's feeling to the collection. The priestly idea was evident in the black tailored jacket, coats and band collared shirts. The Prada look was edgy with a hint of sci-fi chic.

The show was held at the Prada Milan headquarters show space on Via Fogazzaro. Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas created the unique duplex catwalk with wrought-iron fencing and brilliant lighting. The soundtrack for the show was provided by French DJ Frederic Sanchez who played heavy metal hits from Metallica, Judas Priest and Motorhead. The show opened with a Prada exclusive model Rob Ahrens in a black boxy frame three-button jacket with a short lapel paired with charcoal gray sculpted trousers. Trousers in the collection had a 1920's sensation with narrowly cut at the ankles that flared around the knees giving it a relaxed tailored look. The coats and jackets were incredibly boxy with short and long lapels consisted mostly of a dark color palette. Knee-high Lurex argyle socks were added to short trousers and shiny shorts giving a quirky sensation.

Admired pieces in the collection were the ultra-boxy coats and jackets that were available in black, camel, light gray and charcoal. The emerald green v-neck Lurex sweater was incredibly appealing and had that special sci-fi chic look. The trousers were be greatly appreciated by the customer for the incredible tailoring and fit.

Muiccia Prada is a mastermind and displayed her immense intellectual skills with this innovative collection. Priestly tailoring combined with punk chic and a hint of Star Trek were the key elements for the next fall season for Prada. The Prada man is edgy with an appreciation for sophisticated tailoring. -Brent Billiman reporting from Milan, Italy.

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Prada F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model Robin Ahrens for Prada F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model Nicolas Ripoll for Prada F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Prada F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model Tim Meiresone for Prada F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Prada F/W 11

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Bottega Veneta F/W 2011

Art emphasized flaws displayed at Bottega Veneta. Italian designer Tomas Maier created a collection that had an artful touch of nonchalant implied flaws aimed at the customer with a busy lifestyle. Every piece had a technical treatment that was applied giving it a lived in look while maintaining a luxurious appeal. Leather jackets and pants were crumpled and stretched giving it a rugged masculine touch. Dark wool suits had a over-print treatment giving the illusion of a three dimensional look with misplaced stitching. The fabrics in various pieces were textured and distressed making it entirely abstract. The color palette started out with monochromatic dark wool pieces and shifted into bright technicolor of orange tangerine, bright blue, lemon yellow and sapphire. For the bold color choice Maier was influenced by the 1960's Michelangelo Antonioni classic film, “Red Desert.” The Bottega Veneta look was masculine with a carefree spirit.

The event was held at the Bottega Veneta headquarters at Via Privata Ercole Marelli in South Milan. Argentinian model Nicolas Ripoll opened the show in a dark gray wool suit with an over-print treatment and a strictly cut jacket. The matching pants had a relaxed feeling that was unpressed and tucked inside boots. There was a great range of variety in the selection of pants that came in distressed leather, wool and also came in various colors. Every piece had a artful quirky touch and remained chic at the same time.

Admired pieces in the collection was the distressed leather jackets and pants that gave a nice rugged look. The bold colored coats that were available in bright blue and orange tangerine were incredibly appealing.

Tomas Maier created a artful collection that was artistic and creative with implied flaws that would work perfect for the customer with a busy lifestyle. There was immense creativity that he displayed injecting masculinity and art into a successful fall collection. The Bottega Veneta man has a relaxed attitude while remaining incredibly chic. -Brent Billiman reporting from Milan, Italy.

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model Nicolas Ripoll for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model Sean O'Pry for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model Terron Wood for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Stan Honda Photo: Model for Bottega Veneta F/W 11

Monday, January 17, 2011

Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2011

Eccentric tailoring at Dolce & Gabbana. Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana displayed an eccentric touch by re-tailoring classic pieces infusing a modern edge into their fall collection. Adding to the eccentric theme there was also a nod to the 1970's glam English musician Bryan Ferry with icon t-shirts that displayed his album artwork. In the purple and black pave-sequined tuxedo jackets Ferry's personal style was also prevalent and clearly similar to pieces he would wear while performing with the Roxy music. Taking a new direction from last season's Sicilian influence the design duo displayed an edgy modern take on English tailoring. The color palette of the collection mostly consisted of black and grays with eccentric touches of purple and red. A floral red print was also injected into various pieces such as the leather bomber jacket, a tailored suit, tuxedo jackets and distressed jeans. The tailoring of the clothes were modern with fitted jackets and low-rise multi-pocketed pants suitable for a younger audience. The Dolce & Gabbana look was a edgy modern take on Oliver Twist.

The event was held at Dolce & Gabbana Metropol theater on Viale Piave in Milan. The soundtrack for the show was from Bryan Ferry's Roxy music. English model Guy Robinson opened the show in a light gray vertical stripe double breasted jacket with matching low slung trousers. The jackets were tailored and cropped to perfection. The tailoring and fit of every piece had a casual touch with distressed jeans paired with a classic tuxedo jacket. The collection channeled English tailoring with a hint of an eccentric touch of a youthful attitude.

Admired pieces in the collection were the pave-sequined tuxedo jackets that were offered in purple and black. A leather bomber jacket that came in basic red and red floral print was incredibly unique and adored by the editors and stylist. The Bryan Ferry icon t-shirts will be greatly adored by the Dolce & Gabbana customers. The fur jackets were definitely the next season's must have pieces for men.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana displayed a collection that infused a eccentric modern touch to the fall collection. They had a great amount of practical wearable pieces but this season it was aimed at a younger clientele. The Dolce & Gabbana man is young and edgy this next winter season. -Brent Billiman reporting from Milan, Italy.