Marc Jacobs F/W 2009

The night club era of the 1980’s excites Marc Jacobs. Leave it up to celebrated American designer Marc Jacobs to throw the soiree of the season at New York Fashion Week. He presented a magnificent show that referenced the 1980’s clubbing era with the excitement and fun of getting dressed up. Jacobs reworked that idea and finished every piece with luxurious expensive fabrics which of course catered to the prosperous Marc Jacobs clientele. There were bright fluorescent colors such as canary yellow, bubblegum pink and tangy blue. These colors made reference to the late artist Stephen Sprouse who was known for pioneering the 1980’s uptown sophistication in clothing with downtown punk and receptivity. The sensibility from Jacobs in this collection longed for the fun times in New York which might have been due to the fact that he now lives in Paris full time. He gave us the essential party dresses in full flaring skirts with monster shoulders that came in floral brocades and metallic leather. A golden crushed velvet mini-skirt, a pink fuchsia dress paired with green tights might have been pieces that could have made an appearance at clubs like Paradise Garage and the Palladium. Every piece had a nostalgic touch referencing an era of fun times and creativity.

The show was held at the historic 69th Regiment Armory on Lexington Avenue in southern Manhattan. The venue was completely dark without the lavish setting instead the models walked on carpet trailed by a spotlight making this show all about the clothes rather than the staging. This was the show of the season and this time around it was completely exclusive with a guest list of only 500. There was no typical distraction from celebrities and the everyday people but consisted of a crowd of professionals, the press and buyers. Model Kamila Filipcikova opened the show in a simple grey cardigan sweater with a silk print scarf that was placed in between the collars of the sweater and was paired with charcoal trousers and a back half of a kilt. A started with a suttle hint from the 1980’s but when there was realization of the comeback from that era it was evident with the large Thierry Mugler inspired wide shoulders on the jackets, shirts and dresses. Dresses with a sweetheart neckline and puffed-out skirts in colors of bubblegum pink, canary yellow and black gave a 1980’s a flashback of the fun during those times.

This show was all about the amazing hair and Jacobs had a cast 60 models that all had different hairstyles that were either crimped, quaffed, backcombed into a beehive and hair buns stacked 30 centimeters (12 inches) high. The makeup referenced Duran Duran’s Rio cover album with metallic blue lips and kohl rimmed eyes. The shoes were also exceedingly eclectic with over the knee boots, patent shoes with rounded bows and silver balled heels. The irresistible padded bags were offered in purple, green and mauve.

The admired pieces in this collection were the wide shouldered jackets that came in black satin and gold jacquard. There was also the Jodhpur shaped trousers made in teal and purple completed in luxurious silk that were appealing. The puffy party dresses in bubble pink and lime seemed like a lot of fun and were great piece to feel good in.

Marc Jacobs has surprised us with collection that referenced an era in time when people enjoyed themselves and had fun with fashion. This successful collection was all about the clothes rather than the distractions that surround it. Perhaps this was a nostalgic kiss to the era that no longer exists. The Marc Jacobs woman is ready to have fun and enjoy herself with electrifying clothes this next winter season. –Brent Billiman, New York City, USA.


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Anastasija Kondratjeva for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Elsa Sylvan for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Irina Kulikova for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Kamila Filipcikova for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Natasha Poly for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Heidi Mount for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Natasa Vojnovic for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Lily Donaldson for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Eniko Mihalik for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Kim Noorda for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Jac for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Daiane Conterato for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Anna Selezneva for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Uliana Tikhova for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Ines Crnokrak for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Hanne Gaby Odiele for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Amanda Laine for Marc Jacobs F/W 2009