Confessions of a Fashion Writer: Jason Wu F/W 2010

Legendary fashion photographer inspires Jason Wu. American designer Jason Wu was motivated this season from the late legendary fashion photographer, Irving Penn. The simplicity of Penn’s personal style is what set the disposition for the entire collection. An exquisite plaid jacket paired with a tailored crisp white shirt was the essential component for his chic style. This simplicity of Penn’s style was evident in the day wear with the relaxed trousers, the comfortable mohair sweaters and the menswear coats that draped over the feminine blouses, skirts and dresses. Wu also presented his trademark gorgeous cocktail dresses and evening gowns but this time he infused an edgy aspect with paint splatters. Layering of knit pieces and fabrics with hard textures were added to various day wear pieces permeated the suggestion from the menswear inspiration. The strong masculine component of Penn instilled a distinctive edge in numerous pieces. Several ball gowns and dresses were wonderful and something Penn would have taken pleasure in photographing.

The show was held in West Chelsea with a long narrow hot pink runway with model Anja Rubik opening the show in a paint splattered masculine double breasted cashmere coat. The opening look was quite a surprise, Wu has been known for presenting ladylike fantasy feminine dresses and this season each look was distinctive with an edge. The masculine reference was visible in the oversized coats, textures and excess fabrics applied to various pieces. The tailored crisp coats, blouses and trousers gave a nod to Penn’s signature style. The cocktail dresses and ball gowns that were hand draped and ruche appeared exceedingly heavy but definitely looked dramatic and stunning.

An admired piece in the collection was the ivory finale gown that was hand draped. Other pieces that appealing were the Penn inspired jackets and the relaxed trousers. Feathered cocktail dresses were extremely gorgeous and were mostly favored by stylist and buyers.

Jason Wu has showed everyone with this collection that not only can he make a lovely feminine dresses but he can also inject some edge with some masculinity and structure. He gave homage to the notable late fashion photographer Irving Penn with reflecting on his personal style and creating pieces that he would have enjoyed photographing. The Jason Wu women will always remain a sophisticated but this season she is strong and not afraid to have a stylish edge. –Brent Billiman, New York City, USA.