Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2009

A chic and innovative collection derived from the love of paper at Chanel Haute Couture. Chanel Courtier Karl Lagerfeld presented a heavenly collection that was inspired from a simple piece of white paper. He believed that everything creative starts out on a clean white sheet of paper and evolves into something like a story or painting. With that idea he transformed his dream into an innovative collection. With the help of a complete full staff at the Chanel atelier Lagerfeld’s vision was transformed to create a truly beautiful collection. With a color palette that consisted predominately of white, Coco Chanel’s favorite color, there were also hints of black in the collection. Every piece had impeccable detailing and all the outfits were able to translate the light weight sensation of paper as if they were made of delicate paper. The use of sheer materials was particularly outstanding with the tough tulle that was used in the flower and feather details on a number of pieces. This collection was all about luxurious detailing that one could never imagine unless they have touched or tried on a Chanel Haute Couture outfit. The expert work from the atelier was evident in the embroidery and hand stitching in the made to measure pieces that sparkled elegantly from tiny crystalline beads and sequins. Lagerfeld gave us an innovative modern collection that works perfect for the upcoming spring season.

The show was held at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines, a former bank, which was located right across from the Chanel headquarters on rue Cambon. The setting was quite smaller giving it and intimate experience unlike the grandeur location, the Grand Palais, where it would have been difficult to see the exquisite details and craftsmanship. The room was completely decorated in thousands of virgin white paper flowers, bouquets and laser cut table cloths. An immense team of 50 laborers worked hard for two weeks in order to produce the extravagant décor that embellished the staircase and every pillar in the venue. The show opened with Supermodel Freja Beha Erichsen in a gorgeous virgin white razor cut A-line dress paired with a cropped jacket that had squared off shoulders and a stand away collar. Adding to the simple elegant look was a beautiful white head piece made of paper flowers and doilies. There was a dose of long and lean dresses with feathery strips of chiffon and shimmering sequins. The contrasting color of black was injected into the threading and stitching on a few looks but it was later seen in complete looks towards the finale of the show.

Lagerfeld collaborated with enormously talented Japanese Hair dresser Katsuya Kamo who created the head pieces, caps and hair ornaments all from paper. Kamo constructed paper roses, leaf fronds, the Chanel camellia and feathers. The raw cuts made on the floral pieces were accustomed to the entire collection finishing off each look consisting of both white and black colors.

The stunning futuristic bride presented at the finale of the show was breathtaking and absolutely gorgeous. The virgin white bride ensemble came in razor cut pants that was paired with a white paper rose head dress that wrapped around the head. The train of the dress was extravagant with an opulent 20 foot train that was flowing down the runway. Lagerfeld proved to everyone that couture is just not about dresses it is also about pants.

Karl Lagerfeld with the help of the Chanel atelier team has created an amazing collection from an innovative idea that has never been seen before in fashion. Derived from a simple concept and the favorite color of the late Mademoiselle Coco Chanel was all it took to master a craftsmanship that shows no sign of disappearing. With each piece there is a display of great love for made to wear craftsmanship and the love of Haute Couture at its very best. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Magdalena Frackowiak for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Anouck Lepere for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Freja Beha Erichsen for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Lindsay Ellingson for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Tatiana Lyadochkina for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Siri Tollerød for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Pinkie for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Alexandra Tomlinson for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Vlada Roslyakova for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Charlotte di Calypso for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Sasha Pivovarova for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Karmen Pedaru for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Edita Vilkeviciute for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Freja Beha Erichsen for Chanel Haute Couture S/S 09

Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 2009

More Dior than Dior is what John Galliano pervaded at Christian Dior Haute Couture. British Couturier John Galliano presented a remarkable Haute Couture collection that was straight out of a painting and the archives of the late Monsieur Dior. Galliano had researched the archives for this collection and referenced Dior’s celebrated 1947 show and infused it with the love of extravagant art work. He evoked the trademark Dior skirt suit along with silhouettes and volumes from that era. The art work that inspired him was from the renowned Flemish artist Anthony Van Dyck and Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer. Vermeer encouraged the bright color palette of cornflower blue, cream white and yellow. There were a few pieces looked as if they came right out of Van Dyck painting with the oversized laced collars, bodices that were cinched and voluminous sleeves. Galliano inculcated the ideas and intertwined them into a masterful well constructed manner in an atelier. The intricate detailing demonstrates the extraordinary construction of a big team of craftsmen and women that have assembled each look. Exquisite details were seen in the embroidery, hand beading and on some pieces hand painting. Reminiscent of the paintings from the referenced artist each piece in this collection had evolved into an actual work of art.

The show was held at the magnificent Hotel Biron in the Musée Rodin, a museum with works of art from Vincent van Gogh and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. A beautiful stained glass backdrop was propped at end of the runway with colors from Van Dyck and Vermeer’s paintings. The soundtrack was from Carla Bruni-Sarkozy latest album, “Comme Si de Rien N'Etait,” set the feeling for the show. Model Charlotte di Calypso opened the show in a chrome yellow tight-waist full skirt with billowing puff shoulders and an oversized Guipure laced collar. Similar pieces with that Dior skirt suit were also seen in colors of cornflower blue, ivory, black and burnt red. Every piece had a distinct and unique look with intricate detailing that was exceptionally exquisite. A sunny pink gown with a cinched waist and a full skirt looked like it came right out of Vermeer’s painting, “The girl with a wineglass.” This dress was a gorgeous piece that Galliano brought to life and transformed into a wearable form of art.

Decadent hats that looked very light and seemed like they could float away were paired on various looks adding a bit of Flemish drama. Beautiful pearl necklaces embellished a few necklines giving homage to Vermeer’s painting, “Girl with Pearl Earrings.” The shoes had a scroll design pedestal heel and matched each look it was paired with.

The most admired pieces of the show were the lineup of six finale ball gowns that was tremendously impressive. Long difficult hours, hard work and the great number of people it took just to make each piece are evident in the quality of the gown. These gowns give the true meaning of Haute Couture with the essentials elements of quality, value, cut and a hint of imagination.

Legendary artists Anthony Van Dyck and Johannes Vermeer would have been completely satisfied with this marvelous collection from John Galliano. An absolute mastermind he managed to bring a few characters from their paintings to life and applied the trademark colors to this collection successfully. The Christian Dior Haute Couture woman is exquisite and has great love for the arts. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Elena Melnik for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Heloise Guerin for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Chanel Iman for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Lily Donaldson for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Charlotte di Calypso for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Laura Blokhina for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Kasia Struss for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Georgina Stojilkovic for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Tanya Dziahileva for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Bruna Tenorio for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Milana Keller for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Alexandra Agoston for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Alexandra Tretter for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09

Lanvin Men's F/W 2009

Lanvin presented an elegant and well constructed collection in Paris. Dutch designer Lucas Ossendrijiver, with the help of mentor Alber Elbez, presented a romantic collection that was extraordinarily constructed. There was the signature Lanvin feeling that Ossendrijiver infused in each piece giving it that lived in quality without ever feeling like they were off the rack. This collection was completely sophisticated and simple without tremendous effort. A subdued color palette was toned down a bit offering colors of black, grey, tan, army green and plum. Fabrics had a fastidious blend of traditional luxury with signature elements that left the seams, hems and darts visible. The cuts were made wide in the suits and jackets but they remained agile with a narrow silhouette. The double and single breasted jackets were extremely alluring and the wide legged pants flowed lavishly in ripples. The clothes were all about the comforts of luxury and the dramatic effect of how the clothes flowed from the body. Ossendrijiver has given us a simple yet effortless sophisticated collection without forgetting the signature Lanvin sensation.

The show was held at a different venue from last season and this time around it was staged in a school gymnasium. Dramatic soundtrack from American minimalist composer, Philip Glass, set the emotion for the collection. The first look that opened the show was a relaxed trench coat with a belt that cinched the waist paired with free flowing trousers. The look was completed with a sinuous touch with the side swept scarf and the woolen beanie hat. A slight hint of military was evident in the first half of the show giving it a meek masculine sensation. The exhausted luxury idea was seen in the trench coats and ribbon woven pants completed in a manner that never made them look droopy or overdone. The pants were very relaxed this time around almost having the ease and free flowing sensation of track pants, but of course heaps more chic than track pants.

Lanvin offered the woolen beanie hat that came in a variety of colors from black, grey, navy, green, tan and plum. The on trend must have piece for next season was the array of combat boots that was offered. The chic accessory that completed the Lanvin look was the signature silk scarf that was tied to the side.

The wide legged pants that dramatically fell in luxurious ripples were the most admired pieces in the collection that area a breath of fresh air from the overly tailored pants that seemed a little restricting. The suits and jackets that were cut wide that was exceptionally supple but maintained a narrow silhouette were especially appealing. The variety of combat boots and silk scarves gave a special touch to numerous looks making it must have pieces for the next winter season.

Lucas Ossendrijiver, with the help of Alber Elbez, has completed a successful collection for Lanvin while maintaining the signature appeal and infusing a hint of masculinity. Ossendrijiver has successfully accomplished the idea of combining fragility and masculinity. The Lanvin man will be incredibly relaxed this next winter season. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Lanvin F/W 2009

John Galliano Men's F/W 2009

Too much is never enough at John Galliano. British designer John Galliano presented a unique collection straight out of a fantasy for his menswear collection in Paris. The show had the essential theatrical elements of a Galliano show while adding a little fun and taking some risks. Galliano is without doubt different from other menswear designers when he takes inspiration from women’s wear but applies it in an overtly masculine way giving it a masculine enthusiasm. The 18th century secret society known as the hell fire club, contemporary street wear and art work from Rembrandt were the various inspirations for this inimitable collection. With this collection we saw minutemen from the revolutionary war in swashbuckler boots, tricolored hats and long-tailed jackets adding to the 18th century twist. There were also the dreadlocked pirates, decadent lawyers, restoration scalawags and the sexed up men from the Midsummer Night. Proper business men were given some much needed sex appeal by going completely business on top and almost naked on the bottom. Galliano has added some much needed zest to menswear by taking risks and having a little fun.

The show was staged in an enormous venue in a corroded train depot were several thousand votive candles illuminated the red glittered runway. The soundtrack was from the British drama film, Slumdog Millionaire, set the emotion for the show. Model Scott Barnhill opened the event with a tan long tailed jacket, chocolate colored Jodhpur trousers and swashbuckler boots. Adding to the 18th century touch was the tricorn hat and the powdered George Washington inspired wig. The Galliano Gazette, Galliano’s own newspaper design, was also added in this collection. It was used in the brigand’s bomber jackets, dressing gowns and aristocrat’s oratory coats. There were the special gazette prints that were seen in the sexy silk boxers as well.

Admired pieces in the collection were the low crotched trousers that had full hips that were tapered slim, another version had fur trim embellishing the hips and thighs, were magnificent. There was also great love for the remarkable highwayman coats and the long tailed jackets. A favorite look on the theme of men in the show would have to be the naughty Midsummer Night’s look with the painted chest hair and six pack abs on their torsos.

John Galliano has given us one of the best menswear collections to date with this brilliant show. A touch of dandy and glam is all that Paris needed to have a little fun. The Galliano man is willing to take a risk and ready to have a little fun this next winter season. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.


Luca Bruno Photo: Model Scott Barnhill for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009


Luca Bruno Photo: Model for Galliano F/W 2009