Confessions of a Fashion Writer: Alexander McQueen Men's F/W 2009

Alexander McQueen displayed a backstreet pugilistic chic collection in Milan. Prominent English designer Alexander McQueen presented a collection that was dedicated to the obsession with the 19th century Victorian aristocrat backstreet fighter. In light of this fascination, McQueen titled the show, “The McQueensberry Rules.” This gave an indistinguishable name that was similar to the man that set the rules for boxing, Marquis of Queensberry. An impression from Daniel Day Lewis’s Bill the Butcher in the film, Gangs of New York was exceedingly apparent. McQueen gave this rough guy a chic look that had a posh twist with incredible tailoring, perhaps a skill he learned from his training at Savile Row. The exceptionally tailored suits were made with Harris Tweed and had an Edwardian style touch cut very slim to sculpt the body. The silhouettes of the pieces had an exceedingly muscular top and were tapered at the ankles. A sensual nuance was perceptible in the butcher’s apron made entirely in leather giving a feeling of S&M. A suggestion from Jean Paul Gautier was clear in the four piece suits and also the codpieces that covered the crotch in some looks. The McQueensberry man was armed and prepared to take on a street or pub brawl.

McQueen’s vision came to life with the scenery of the show that almost felt like an actual murky corner of Victorian East London. The gas street lamps were burning supplementing emphasis on that backstreet emotion. McQueen also included a cast of several professional boxers that walked alongside the models. The show opened with a black knee length fur coat over a black short coat paired with a suit. The added touches to finish this look were dashing stylish homburgs short hats, silver topped shillelaghs, black shoes and hands wrapped in orange cotton. There was immense attention paid to the coat offering various colors in trenches, sturdy wool coats and rippled frockcoats that slipped off the shoulders like a cape. Each look was remarkable having melodramatic commotion with a tough guy appeal.

The Homburg short hats came in a variety of colors of black, navy, tan and brown. The combats boots were outstanding and on key with the latest Milan trend. The shillelaghs were an added touch that was really made this entire look come together and would have been perfect to use as a weapon in a pugilistic manner.

The pieces of choice were the slim-cut Harris Tweed Edwardian style suits that perfectly sculpted the body in all the right places. Dapper frockcoats that slipped off the shoulders looked like a flowing cape. There were plenty of remarkable pieces in this collection and they could all be taken apart and stand alone like the six pocket combat pants, four button jackets and the shirts with the short collar.

Alexander McQueen makes flight of his imagination and turns it into reality with this brilliant collection. He executed this collection with extraordinary articulate pieces with great tailored quality. The McQueensberry man is a tough guy with incredible style ready to defend himself. –Brent Billiman, Milan, Italy.

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