More Dior than Dior is what John Galliano pervaded at Christian Dior Haute Couture. British Couturier John Galliano presented a remarkable Haute Couture collection that was straight out of a painting and the archives of the late Monsieur Dior. Galliano had researched the archives for this collection and referenced Dior’s celebrated 1947 show and infused it with the love of extravagant art work. He evoked the trademark Dior skirt suit along with silhouettes and volumes from that era. The art work that inspired him was from the renowned Flemish artist Anthony Van Dyck and Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer. Vermeer encouraged the bright color palette of cornflower blue, cream white and yellow. There were a few pieces looked as if they came right out of Van Dyck painting with the oversized laced collars, bodices that were cinched and voluminous sleeves. Galliano inculcated the ideas and intertwined them into a masterful well constructed manner in an atelier. The intricate detailing demonstrates the extraordinary construction of a big team of craftsmen and women that have assembled each look. Exquisite details were seen in the embroidery, hand beading and on some pieces hand painting. Reminiscent of the paintings from the referenced artist each piece in this collection had evolved into an actual work of art.
The show was held at the magnificent Hotel Biron in the Musée Rodin, a museum with works of art from Vincent van Gogh and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. A beautiful stained glass backdrop was propped at end of the runway with colors from Van Dyck and Vermeer’s paintings. The soundtrack was from Carla Bruni-Sarkozy latest album, “Comme Si de Rien N'Etait,” set the feeling for the show. Model Charlotte di Calypso opened the show in a chrome yellow tight-waist full skirt with billowing puff shoulders and an oversized Guipure laced collar. Similar pieces with that Dior skirt suit were also seen in colors of cornflower blue, ivory, black and burnt red. Every piece had a distinct and unique look with intricate detailing that was exceptionally exquisite. A sunny pink gown with a cinched waist and a full skirt looked like it came right out of Vermeer’s painting, “The girl with a wineglass.” This dress was a gorgeous piece that Galliano brought to life and transformed into a wearable form of art.
Decadent hats that looked very light and seemed like they could float away were paired on various looks adding a bit of Flemish drama. Beautiful pearl necklaces embellished a few necklines giving homage to Vermeer’s painting, “Girl with Pearl Earrings.” The shoes had a scroll design pedestal heel and matched each look it was paired with.
The most admired pieces of the show were the lineup of six finale ball gowns that was tremendously impressive. Long difficult hours, hard work and the great number of people it took just to make each piece are evident in the quality of the gown. These gowns give the true meaning of Haute Couture with the essentials elements of quality, value, cut and a hint of imagination.
Legendary artists Anthony Van Dyck and Johannes Vermeer would have been completely satisfied with this marvelous collection from John Galliano. An absolute mastermind he managed to bring a few characters from their paintings to life and applied the trademark colors to this collection successfully. The Christian Dior Haute Couture woman is exquisite and has great love for the arts. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Elena Melnik for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Heloise Guerin for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Chanel Iman for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Lily Donaldson for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Charlotte di Calypso for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Laura Blokhina for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Kasia Struss for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Georgina Stojilkovic for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Tanya Dziahileva for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Bruna Tenorio for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Milana Keller for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Alexandra Agoston for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
Luca Bruno Photo: Model Alexandra Tretter for Dior Haute Couture S/S 09
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