Confessions of a Fashion Writer: Louis Vuitton Men's F/W 2009

A ready to travel collection presented at Louis Vuitton. Studio director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, Paul Helbers, displayed a collection that was perfect for the globetrotting traveler. Helbers was inspired by Africa and the traveling wardrobe of a King. The African influences were perceptible in the color palette with shades of orange and tarnished reds. The focal colors were mostly dark consisting of black, grey, midnight and ink blue. Fabrics for the most part were vacation friendly and cut slim to fit the body with an aerodynamic shape giving off an urban European flair that was exceptionally sleek. The attire was not the typical over the top glamour but rather an understated elegance for a certain amount of international elite that enjoys obscurity. The collection had a nice dose of sophistication in the nylon spy anoraks with cashmere inserts and a shaved LV Damier check mink topcoat. The cuts were astounding in the woolen overcoats, puffer jackets and car coats. The Louis Vuitton man is prepared to jump on any first class flight anywhere in the world.

The show was held at a new venue on the north side of Paris with a simplistic atmosphere in slate grey runway and a dark grey background. The soundtrack from Cape Verdean singer, Cesária Évora, gave the show an African sensation. The show opened with a black sporty nylon anorak trench paired with an indigo blue v-neck sweater and grey loose cut pants. There was a great amount of astounding razor cut blazers and the loose cut pants seen throughout the entire collection. The 1854 officer’s mess coat style coat had an incredible cut and was made in alligator, crocodile, antelope and wool. Each piece was exceedingly clean cut but not overly restrictive giving it a liberated sense, perfect for traveling.

This collection was all about the bags and the debut of the collaboration with American music artist Kanye West, who designed a number of high top sneakers. The sneakers had the trademark Louis Vuitton logo embossed on them and came in colors of red, white, beige, black and blue. A design that West was profoundly pompous of and sat front row watching the models debut them. The bags on the other hand were impressive giving us a new logo bag with a six-sided patch resembling a soccer ball. Oversized scarves that were made of silk and wool replaced the tie in the neckwear of choice.

The most admired piece in the collection was the 1854 officer’s mess coat that was made in a lavish crocodile. The loose cut trousers that were displayed in an array of dark colors were extremely appealing. The variety of bags and totes should help feed the current obsession with man bags.

Paul Helbers successfully translated his idea of how an African King would travel the world. Presenting pieces that were carefree and understated while maintaining the luxury appeal was a marvelous touch. The Louis Vuitton next winter season is ready to travel the world and live like a King. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.

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