Confessions of a Fashion Writer: John Galliano Men's F/W 2009

Too much is never enough at John Galliano. British designer John Galliano presented a unique collection straight out of a fantasy for his menswear collection in Paris. The show had the essential theatrical elements of a Galliano show while adding a little fun and taking some risks. Galliano is without doubt different from other menswear designers when he takes inspiration from women’s wear but applies it in an overtly masculine way giving it a masculine enthusiasm. The 18th century secret society known as the hell fire club, contemporary street wear and art work from Rembrandt were the various inspirations for this inimitable collection. With this collection we saw minutemen from the revolutionary war in swashbuckler boots, tricolored hats and long-tailed jackets adding to the 18th century twist. There were also the dreadlocked pirates, decadent lawyers, restoration scalawags and the sexed up men from the Midsummer Night. Proper business men were given some much needed sex appeal by going completely business on top and almost naked on the bottom. Galliano has added some much needed zest to menswear by taking risks and having a little fun.

The show was staged in an enormous venue in a corroded train depot were several thousand votive candles illuminated the red glittered runway. The soundtrack was from the British drama film, Slumdog Millionaire, set the emotion for the show. Model Scott Barnhill opened the event with a tan long tailed jacket, chocolate colored Jodhpur trousers and swashbuckler boots. Adding to the 18th century touch was the tricorn hat and the powdered George Washington inspired wig. The Galliano Gazette, Galliano’s own newspaper design, was also added in this collection. It was used in the brigand’s bomber jackets, dressing gowns and aristocrat’s oratory coats. There were the special gazette prints that were seen in the sexy silk boxers as well.

Admired pieces in the collection were the low crotched trousers that had full hips that were tapered slim, another version had fur trim embellishing the hips and thighs, were magnificent. There was also great love for the remarkable highwayman coats and the long tailed jackets. A favorite look on the theme of men in the show would have to be the naughty Midsummer Night’s look with the painted chest hair and six pack abs on their torsos.

John Galliano has given us one of the best menswear collections to date with this brilliant show. A touch of dandy and glam is all that Paris needed to have a little fun. The Galliano man is willing to take a risk and ready to have a little fun this next winter season. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.

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