Confessions of a Fashion Writer: Lanvin Men's F/W 2009

Lanvin presented an elegant and well constructed collection in Paris. Dutch designer Lucas Ossendrijiver, with the help of mentor Alber Elbez, presented a romantic collection that was extraordinarily constructed. There was the signature Lanvin feeling that Ossendrijiver infused in each piece giving it that lived in quality without ever feeling like they were off the rack. This collection was completely sophisticated and simple without tremendous effort. A subdued color palette was toned down a bit offering colors of black, grey, tan, army green and plum. Fabrics had a fastidious blend of traditional luxury with signature elements that left the seams, hems and darts visible. The cuts were made wide in the suits and jackets but they remained agile with a narrow silhouette. The double and single breasted jackets were extremely alluring and the wide legged pants flowed lavishly in ripples. The clothes were all about the comforts of luxury and the dramatic effect of how the clothes flowed from the body. Ossendrijiver has given us a simple yet effortless sophisticated collection without forgetting the signature Lanvin sensation.

The show was held at a different venue from last season and this time around it was staged in a school gymnasium. Dramatic soundtrack from American minimalist composer, Philip Glass, set the emotion for the collection. The first look that opened the show was a relaxed trench coat with a belt that cinched the waist paired with free flowing trousers. The look was completed with a sinuous touch with the side swept scarf and the woolen beanie hat. A slight hint of military was evident in the first half of the show giving it a meek masculine sensation. The exhausted luxury idea was seen in the trench coats and ribbon woven pants completed in a manner that never made them look droopy or overdone. The pants were very relaxed this time around almost having the ease and free flowing sensation of track pants, but of course heaps more chic than track pants.

Lanvin offered the woolen beanie hat that came in a variety of colors from black, grey, navy, green, tan and plum. The on trend must have piece for next season was the array of combat boots that was offered. The chic accessory that completed the Lanvin look was the signature silk scarf that was tied to the side.

The wide legged pants that dramatically fell in luxurious ripples were the most admired pieces in the collection that area a breath of fresh air from the overly tailored pants that seemed a little restricting. The suits and jackets that were cut wide that was exceptionally supple but maintained a narrow silhouette were especially appealing. The variety of combat boots and silk scarves gave a special touch to numerous looks making it must have pieces for the next winter season.

Lucas Ossendrijiver, with the help of Alber Elbez, has completed a successful collection for Lanvin while maintaining the signature appeal and infusing a hint of masculinity. Ossendrijiver has successfully accomplished the idea of combining fragility and masculinity. The Lanvin man will be incredibly relaxed this next winter season. –Brent Billiman, Paris, France.

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